Acids in Skincare: The Beginner’s Guide to AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs

Acids have become a staple in modern skincare routines, offering powerful exfoliation, hydration, and rejuvenation. With terms like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs dominating product labels, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. This beginner’s guide breaks down these acids, explaining their benefits, how they work, and which one is right for your skin type.

What Are Skincare Acids?

Skincare acids are active ingredients that help exfoliate the skin by breaking down dead skin cells on the surface or within pores. Depending on their structure and function, acids can address concerns like dullness, acne, fine lines, and uneven skin tone.

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The Three Main Types of Acids

1. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

• What They Are: Water-soluble acids derived from natural sources like sugarcane, milk, or fruits.
• How They Work: AHAs exfoliate the top layer of skin, promoting cell turnover for a brighter, smoother complexion.
• Best For: Dry, normal, or mature skin.

Popular AHAs:

• Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugarcane, it’s the most potent AHA due to its small molecular size.
• Lactic Acid: A milder AHA derived from milk, ideal for sensitive skin.
• Mandelic Acid: Derived from almonds, it’s gentle and suitable for darker skin tones to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Benefits:

• Brightens dull skin.
• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
• Improves uneven texture.

Try: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution.

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2. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

• What They Are: Oil-soluble acids, with salicylic acid being the most common.
• How They Work: BHAs penetrate pores, dissolving oil and debris to reduce acne and blackheads.
• Best For: Oily, combination, or acne-prone skin.

Popular BHAs:

• Salicylic Acid: Derived from willow bark, it’s excellent for treating acne and minimizing enlarged pores.

Benefits:

• Clears clogged pores.
• Reduces inflammation and redness.
• Controls excess oil.

Try: Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.

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3. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

• What They Are: Larger molecules than AHAs, making them gentler and less likely to cause irritation.
• How They Work: PHAs exfoliate the skin’s surface while providing hydration and antioxidant benefits.
• Best For: Sensitive or dry skin.

Popular PHAs:

• Gluconolactone: A gentle exfoliator with moisturizing properties.
• Lactobionic Acid: Known for its ability to hydrate and repair skin.

Benefits:

• Exfoliates without irritation.
• Hydrates and strengthens the skin barrier.
• Suitable for rosacea or eczema-prone skin.

Try: NEOSTRATA Restore PHA Facial Cleanser.

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How to Incorporate Acids into Your Routine

1. Start Slow

• Introduce acids gradually, using them 1-2 times a week and increasing frequency as your skin adjusts.

2. Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin Type

• Dry or Mature Skin: AHAs for hydration and anti-aging.
• Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: BHAs to clear pores and control oil.
• Sensitive Skin: PHAs for gentle exfoliation.

3. Patch Test

• Test new products on a small area of skin to ensure compatibility.

4. Use Sunscreen Daily

• Acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

Try: EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46.

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Common Myths About Acids in Skincare

Myth 1: Acids Are Too Harsh for Sensitive Skin

• Truth: PHAs and low-concentration lactic acid are gentle enough for most sensitive skin types.

Myth 2: You Can’t Mix Acids

• Truth: While layering strong acids can irritate, some combinations, like AHAs with BHAs, are effective when formulated correctly.

Myth 3: Acids Exfoliate Immediately

• Truth: While you might feel an instant smoothness, visible results like brighter skin and reduced acne take weeks.

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Tips for Using Acids Safely

1. Avoid Over-Exfoliation

   • Using multiple exfoliating products can damage your skin barrier.

2. Pair with Hydrating Ingredients

   • Use humectants like hyaluronic acid to maintain moisture balance.

3. Follow with a Barrier Cream

   • Protect your skin with ceramide-rich moisturizers after using acids.

   Try: CeraVe Moisturizing Cream.

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When to See a Dermatologist

If you experience persistent redness, irritation, or no improvement after using acids, consult a dermatologist. They can recommend tailored treatments, such as chemical peels or prescription-strength products.

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Conclusion

Acids are powerful tools in skincare, offering solutions for everything from acne to aging. By understanding the differences between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, you can choose the right acid for your skin type and concerns. Remember to start slow, use sunscreen, and pair acids with hydrating ingredients for optimal results. With the right approach, acids can transform your skincare routine and leave you with healthy, glowing skin.